Lu & Aaron’s Exceptional Adventures In Bolivia
Luciana Estrada (“Lu”) and Aaron Gowen are nomadic souls. Lu was born in Bolivia and Aaron was born in Ireland, but their love of adventure, interest in local cultures, and curiosity about the world has taken them to many-many places — Lu has visited 40+ countries and lived in four.
Their latest adventure took them to Bolivia. They did little-to-no research into the itinerary as Lu knows the excellent spots and is aware of fine hotels because her Dad has a lot of contacts. Her motive was to share landscapes that Aaron would never see otherwise. Although they’ve been dating for a year, Aaron’s met all her family, except Lu’s mum and granny. Lu’s last infinity stone to collect was that introduction.
The couple curated an adventure that melded their remote working capabilities with annual PTO (2 weeks on, 2 weeks off) with their footloose-and-fancy-free dispositions.
They ventured on a four-week excursion that took them to Bolivia and afforded Aaron a chance to meet Lu’s parents and grandmother. While the pair had a terrific time, the trip had its challenges, too. For Aaron, it meant plunging into a zero-English world and engaging with super culture shock. By the end of their four-week stay, his Spanish had improved dramatically. For Lu, it was a rare opportunity to see her country through another’s eyes.
Their home base was in La Paz. For those who slept through geography class, Bolivia has not one but two capitals: La Paz, where the seat of government is located, and Sucre, the legal and judicial center of the country. La Paz also provided a home base.
La Paz
La Paz – Photos by Luciana Estrada
For the first week of their 4-week journey in Bolivia, they stayed in La Paz. Sitting 3,869 meters above sea level, it’s the highest capital in the world, surrounded by stunning, extravagantly-colored mountains. Cable cars serve as a mass transportation system. The views from there are crazy.
Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni – Photos by Luciana Estrada
Lu and Aaron traveled to southwest Bolivia to see the Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat and the remains of a prehistoric lake. Everything is white and — in the rainy season — covered by a little layer of water. It becomes a mirror to the sky; a truly heavenly sight.
“Because I lived in La Paz,” Lu said, “I never saw it as beautiful or recognized how peaceful it is.” They stayed in a gorgeous 4-star hotel made of (what else?) salt, Palacio de Sal. Chilling in the spa prepared them for the next leg of their trip.
Rurrenabaque
Maya Boutique Hotel – Photos by Luciana Estrada
It was back to La Paz, and then onward to Rurrenabaque in Northern Bolivia, a popular gateway to the Amazonian jungle. Before the jaunt into the jungle, they stayed in the Maya Boutique Hotel (managed by the lovely Maritza), a sustainable accommodation with exquisite views of the Rio Beni.
It was wise to rest up because getting to the Bolivian Amazonian jungle involves a 10-hour overnight bus ride and a 1-hour flight. Lu and Aaron were both “engulfed in palm trees!” and awed by nature on a scale that makes humans look tiny. The only noise was the sounds of the jungle and its inhabitants. They ate fresh papaya from the trees at a papaya plantation.
The next day, they made their way to Santa Rosa, setting off in a motorized canoe for a tour of the grasslands, wetlands and scattered palm trees of Las Pampas.
Photos by Luciana Estrada
The wildlife there is extraordinary — ink dolphins, birds, squirrel monkeys — and sometimes a bit scary — jaguars, and crocodiles, oh my! Occasionally, denizens of the jungle stop by to check out the visitors.
One night, Lu and Aaron shared their bungalow with two bats who wouldn’t stop flying around. Another morning they woke up to find a family of 8 capybaras outside their door. The creatures were the size of labradors and, thankfully, kindly disposed towards humans…
Highlights of this part of the trip? Swimming with dolphins. Stargazing on a magical midnight canoe ride. An astonishing jungle sunset.
Back in Rurrenabaque they returned to the pleasures of civilization, scootering about and then relaxing in a private swimming pool. They shared a beer with a Toucan and enjoyed Juliano`s delicious Roquefort sauce and pasta rosa just about every night. Still, signs of nature were close at hand. One evening they nearly ran over an 8-foot snake with their tuk tuk.
Rurrenabaque Continued
Photos by Luciana Estrada
Back in La Paz, Aaron and Lu continued exploring the delicious Bolivian cuisine. Anticucho (heart of cow); llama; a lot of steak – very cheap there; the Vacío is sooo good; salteñas (a savory empanada) drenched in tumbo juice; and trout from Lago Titicaca, the largest freshwater lake in South America and the highest lake in the world. It’s a good thing they chowed down because they’ll need all their energy for week 4’s dive into…
Back to La Paz
Photos by Luciana Estrada
The nightlife of La Paz! Time in Bolivia wouldn’t be anything without at least one excursion into the city’s vivid life after-dark. Our intrepid travelers went to a saia bar; found an underground drum & bass rave; dug some Cumbia music while riding in the minibusses – another type of public transport that stops literally anywhere; and Aaron even got to DJ at the Hamman Speakeasy Bar. Tons of hot places to chill in and cool places to work up a sweat.
What’s Next?
More travels! Lu and Aaron will spend some time in Barcelona but leave when it gets to boiling in July/August. They’ll decamp to an Italian island that’s such a well-kept secret that Italian friends ask them how they found out about it. (They’re not telling, so don’t ask.) Then it’s off to Cork, Ireland; then Paris; then Mexico.
It’s clear that these globe-trotters never rest!
Check Aaron & Lu out at Instagram: @himandher_travels